I am in the process of making a seax blade for MYSELF.
8" blade and will end up about 13" overall for the HT.
the blade will be 1/4" thick 5160 steel with a thru tang (like the originals, although they were shorter and mine will be all the way thru) and a wide-ish blade.
The shape will be finished and the bevels ground in obviously....and I can bust off the scale and what not here...
It will need the normalizing, hardening and tempering ONLY.
I cannot HT currently....
So, can someone PLEASE do the HT for me?
I am willing to pay for your time and shipping both ways in a USPS MO.
Please PM me if you can help!
HT needed!
Moderator: Eric C
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- Silent Watcher over the Peaceful Lands
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:38 am
- Location: The Western Edge of Mirkwood...
HT needed!
Here I stand...unbowed, unbent, unbroken.
Re: HT needed!
Is it necessary that the tang be heat treated and tempered? I've started leaving my tangs soft. I would rather have the tang/ricasso area a nice springy temper to add flex since that is the area where a break will readily occur. For me the answer to this question makes a difference about whether or not I can HT with my current set-up.
Ichthean Forge (pronounced Ick thee an). Maker of knives, and primitive camping gear.
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- Silent Watcher over the Peaceful Lands
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:38 am
- Location: The Western Edge of Mirkwood...
Re: HT needed!
Oh no way! Tang SHOULD be soft! I know exactly what you mean about the ricasso area being springy!
I learned to HT using Tim Lively's method (which is exactly like what you are talking about)....but, I have to re-line my forge and there is no way for me to do it right now....let me know!
I learned to HT using Tim Lively's method (which is exactly like what you are talking about)....but, I have to re-line my forge and there is no way for me to do it right now....let me know!
Here I stand...unbowed, unbent, unbroken.
Re: HT needed!
PM sent.
Ichthean Forge (pronounced Ick thee an). Maker of knives, and primitive camping gear.