Oh-ho! Is that so?
Dangit.
I.33
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Pwyll
- Silent Watcher over the Peaceful Lands
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Re: I.33
I.33 is a blast. I do find that using the buckler primarily to protect the hand, and secondarily in an offensive role works well. I've also noticed a lot of similarities in motion to some Filipino double stick work. (Clever, those medieval Europeans sneaking over to the Phillipines to steal techniques... 
)
As for a source for bucklers, I'd also add The Dwarven Smithy, which is Brian Hunt. He does steel bucklers, and also plastic ones which are awesome for training. He also makes some great plastic wasters that are good for training, and are about as hard to destroy as the One Ring.
http://web.emerytelcom.net/users/blhunt/sales.htm
)As for a source for bucklers, I'd also add The Dwarven Smithy, which is Brian Hunt. He does steel bucklers, and also plastic ones which are awesome for training. He also makes some great plastic wasters that are good for training, and are about as hard to destroy as the One Ring.
http://web.emerytelcom.net/users/blhunt/sales.htm
Pwyll
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Re: I.33
Wow those look like great practice swords.
"Knowledge is a weapon. I intend to be formidably armed." Richard, the Seeker (Sword of Truth)"
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mcapanelli
- Haeropada
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Re: I.33
I've never used plastic. I've only really used steel. Do they respond like steel? To clarify, do they give a little so you can feel intent and pressure from the blade in the bind? Sorry if my words fall short here but I've never tried anything that can communicate to you like steel can. It'd be great for the noobs to train with as my Squire great sword is getting a little too notched to file down anymore.Pwyll wrote:I.33 is a blast. I do find that using the buckler primarily to protect the hand, and secondarily in an offensive role works well. I've also noticed a lot of similarities in motion to some Filipino double stick work. (Clever, those medieval Europeans sneaking over to the Phillipines to steal techniques...
As for a source for bucklers, I'd also add The Dwarven Smithy, which is Brian Hunt. He does steel bucklers, and also plastic ones which are awesome for training. He also makes some great plastic wasters that are good for training, and are about as hard to destroy as the One Ring.
http://web.emerytelcom.net/users/blhunt/sales.htm
Winter is coming
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R.D.Metcalf
- Amrod Rhandir
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Re: I.33
Mike, I've always wondered that myself, I do know that Dave Rawlins has a line of plastic trainers and would assume he has taken this into account. But like you, I have to wonder.
The frontier moves with the sun and pushes the Red Man of these wilderness forests in front of it... until one day there will be nowhere left. Then our race will be no more, or be not us.
My Sword Is my Troth.
~Iron Wolf Forge~
My Sword Is my Troth.
~Iron Wolf Forge~
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Pwyll
- Silent Watcher over the Peaceful Lands
- Posts: 113
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:49 pm
- Location: SW Pennsylvania
Re: I.33
Whoops, sorry it took me so long to get back to this. But I've been hit in the head a lot, and my mind wanders... 
The plastic wasters are a simulation, and so won't be perfect. I've only briefly played with the plastic swords, but they do seem to be a bit closer to steel than the wooden wasters. But I also use wooden wasters.
*Again, Pwyll climbs on his soapbox and acts like he knows what he's talking about*
I look at training as a sort of spectrum. At one end, you have the real weapon, the steel one with sharp edges. You can do test cutting with this, and flouryshing, and maybe some other drills.
Then you have a blunt, still steel, and still inherently dangerous. But some people do a bit of loose play with these. Of course, this has to be highly controlled, and you should only do it with someone you absolutely trust, someone you've worked with for a long time. Blunts are also fantastic for winding, and for a lot of basic drills.
Wooden (or plastic) wasters are good for other work, for basic drills for winding... But you do run into issues with the feel, with the way the wood grips, and the stiffness. I think the plastic is slightly better for this work. Both are merely simulations, and so have flaws. But they are good for some purposes.
Take another step away from steel, and you move into things like shinai, or simple rattan sticks, further removed from the steel weapons, but good for practice at sped, for putting bruises on the people you train with. But here is where you can work your "fencing", your distance work, timing, footwork...
Then you come to things like boffers. I hate boffers. I think you lose move so far a way from the true weapon that it loses utility as a training tool. It encourages the user to be willing to "trade", which is not the way to survive a fight. I believe that pain is a great teacher for martial technique. Pain, not injury. Wear enough protective gear to prevent injury, and use control. Protect small bones and vulnerable organs. And don't train with idiots.
Dang, I'm wandering. To get back to your question, I'd say that the plastic isn't a perfect simulation of a steel sword, but can get pretty close.
And I keep hoping for Brian to finish the design on his cut & thrust plastic waster.
For wooden wasters, my favorite company is New Stirling Armory. They make a good product and stand behind it.
The plastic wasters are a simulation, and so won't be perfect. I've only briefly played with the plastic swords, but they do seem to be a bit closer to steel than the wooden wasters. But I also use wooden wasters.
*Again, Pwyll climbs on his soapbox and acts like he knows what he's talking about*
I look at training as a sort of spectrum. At one end, you have the real weapon, the steel one with sharp edges. You can do test cutting with this, and flouryshing, and maybe some other drills.
Then you have a blunt, still steel, and still inherently dangerous. But some people do a bit of loose play with these. Of course, this has to be highly controlled, and you should only do it with someone you absolutely trust, someone you've worked with for a long time. Blunts are also fantastic for winding, and for a lot of basic drills.
Wooden (or plastic) wasters are good for other work, for basic drills for winding... But you do run into issues with the feel, with the way the wood grips, and the stiffness. I think the plastic is slightly better for this work. Both are merely simulations, and so have flaws. But they are good for some purposes.
Take another step away from steel, and you move into things like shinai, or simple rattan sticks, further removed from the steel weapons, but good for practice at sped, for putting bruises on the people you train with. But here is where you can work your "fencing", your distance work, timing, footwork...
Then you come to things like boffers. I hate boffers. I think you lose move so far a way from the true weapon that it loses utility as a training tool. It encourages the user to be willing to "trade", which is not the way to survive a fight. I believe that pain is a great teacher for martial technique. Pain, not injury. Wear enough protective gear to prevent injury, and use control. Protect small bones and vulnerable organs. And don't train with idiots.
Dang, I'm wandering. To get back to your question, I'd say that the plastic isn't a perfect simulation of a steel sword, but can get pretty close.
And I keep hoping for Brian to finish the design on his cut & thrust plastic waster.
For wooden wasters, my favorite company is New Stirling Armory. They make a good product and stand behind it.
Pwyll
Come to the dark side.
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mcapanelli
- Haeropada
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Re: I.33
Thanks man. We've been looking for alternatives for the new people. for myself and my training partner we only use steel, even in free play. Not something I'd advocate unless you've been training for a while and have some previous experience studying under an instructor.
Winter is coming