Some recent projects

[Ernildir]

Yes, you can stiffen/harden thinner pieces but while they can be formed and set they won't have much strength. If you wanted to make a semi rigid mask, it would work fine, but for most anything else, not so much.

Interesting... I hadn't considered the possibility of making a mask from leather. I only made mine from cheap cloth (old t-shirt remnants, actually). How would I go about crafting such a semi rigid mask? I think it could be a good experience.

[Peter Remling]

A number or ways, first design the mask on paper, if several colors are to be used, stitch the different pieces together. Useing hot wax, soak the leather in the wax. Remove from the wax. Form the desired shape and let set. Small changes/adjustments can be made useing a hair dryer on high hot.

[Ernildir]

Thank you. Is there a particular sort of wax you recommend, and if so, where might it be obtained?

Now are we actually talking about the traditional Ranger face mask, or a broad, unclassified sort of mask? A hardened leather Ranger mask would be interesting, but if it were uncollapsible, I would think that its practicality would be limited.

[Greg]

Thank you. Is there a particular sort of wax you recommend, and if so, where might it be obtained?

Now are we actually talking about the traditional Ranger face mask, or a broad, unclassified sort of mask? A hardened leather Ranger mask would be interesting, but if it were uncollapsible, I would think that its practicality would be limited.

I think he's referring to things like masquerade masks and others that need to remain rigid. The mask is just a good example of what you'd do with hardened leather of the weights you're talking about; there are other uses, of course, but that one certainly makes a lot of sense to me. You're right, a ranger's mask in the style of the film's Ithilien Rangers wouldn't be practical hard, but one in the style of this artist's representation of the same group might do well:

[kaelln]

The mask I'm wearing in the "Now and Then" thread is a leather mask I made. It was made of saddle weight leather, which I just cut, soaked, and molded into shape. I didn't use any wax, just water. It's held it's shape now for over a decade, OTOH, it's never been in the rain. It might very well lose it's shape under the right conditions. I would think ordinary parafin would work fine for waterproofing and stiffening, but I'm uncertain about using fabric weight leather to make a rigid mask.

[Mirimaran]

For safety's sake, can the process of heating the wax and immersion be elaborated on?

[Kiriana]

Depending on what Erich is making.. like armour pieces.. he soaks in water.. shapes, then bakes in the oven. That is if you want very stiff hard leather pieces.

As for a leather mask, stiffened but NOT hardened would be good. A hard leather face mask could irritate your face when you move. Plus, it loses it's breathable qualities and can become very hot under it.

[Peter Remling]

Parafin is best although bee's will work just as well. Beeswax does have one big drawback though, it attracts bees.

To melt the wax use a double boiler. If you don't know what a double boiler is or don't have one, simply take a coffee can put in the wax, place the can in a large pot of water and put it on the stove. The water will keep the wax from combusting but will allow it to melt.

Once the wax is melted submerse the leather in it allow it time for the wax to become absorb into the leather. Remove mold to desired shape and away you go.

While water will work for some things, it removes the oils from the leather and eventually will weaken it.

[Ernildir]

Thank you for the information, friends.

[E.MacKermak]

One thing to remember about parrafin...IT COMBUSTS. Peter is dead right about using the double boiler, preferably over an electric heat source. You don't want to introduce flame if you can avoid it. I don't like wax hardening as it doesn't last very long in the southern heat and has to be redone.

Generally, I use water shaping and then put it in the oven at 180 degrees checking about every 20 minutes until the edges feel dry but have not scorched, then I set it aside for a couple of days to finish drying. I have used a 10:1 mixture of water and Titebond III wood glue to soak the leather before baking to provide a bit more protection from moisture. Additionally, you could wet form it and then soak it in acrylic floor polish (Future) and then let it dry to seal it.

Of course, all these techniques only work on veg-tanned leather. Most of your really supple leathers are chrome tanned. If you cut the leather and the edges look gray instead tan, it is probably chrome tanned and will not absorb the water properly to harden. I recommend you practice with some small pieces until you get the techniques down.

[Ernildir]

One thing to remember about parrafin...IT COMBUSTS. Peter is dead right about using the double boiler, preferably over an electric heat source. You don't want to introduce flame if you can avoid it. I don't like wax hardening as it doesn't last very long in the southern heat and has to be redone.

Generally, I use water shaping and then put it in the oven at 180 degrees checking about every 20 minutes until the edges feel dry but have not scorched, then I set it aside for a couple of days to finish drying. I have used a 10:1 mixture of water and Titebond III wood glue to soak the leather before baking to provide a bit more protection from moisture. Additionally, you could wet form it and then soak it in acrylic floor polish (Future) and then let it dry to seal it.

Of course, all these techniques only work on veg-tanned leather. Most of your really supple leathers are chrome tanned. If you cut the leather and the edges look gray instead tan, it is probably chrome tanned and will not absorb the water properly to harden. I recommend you practice with some small pieces until you get the techniques down.

Thank you.

And here's a question about your shoulder guards -- how does one fasten them onto a shoulder? I've yet to learn how a shoulder guard is secured. :/

[Greg]

They typically belt on with two straps, much like you'd expect a non-laced pair of bracers to. If wearing additional armor, such as a gorget, there is quite often a strap that will connect them to the gorget to keep them from falling off. On a few rare occasions, I've also seen them have straps that go under the opposite arm, much like an archery quiver would.

[E.MacKermak]

I intend to attach them to the shoulders of my body armor (once I make it). You can also attache them to a gorget or mantle. I have seen them pointed (tied) directly to a gambeson under the armor and I will probably use this technique when I make mine for SCA use. I don't like the crossed belt technique but there are several people I know who use it.

[Ernildir]

Thanks.