Middle Earth Ranger Forum

This is the XVIa in Micheal Pikulas shop with a mock up of her new fittings, Type AE cross and a Geibig type 18 pommel. The AE cross was a struggle for me and after two weeks of working 10 to 12 hours a day to come home and work for several more hours to keep acheiving a result that did not live up to my vision for this peice, I sent it back to Micheal to let him cutler the sword.... "Retreat hell! I'm advancing the other direction!!"

I'm glad I did, I learned that my use of figured wood for the grip may not have been a good idea on a longsword as the longer grip does flex in a cut somewhat and could've cracked my grip. With that I decided to let Micheal go a traditional route so the grip will be a historically correct composite 9.5" grip, two peice wood core wrapped in leather over risers, similar to my XIV.

Thats the overveiw of the sword now lets talk about the scabbard. In my line of work call backs are important if there is a message on my cell from someone who has a job they need done they can expect a call from me within an hour or two, and if I say 7:30 in the morning I'll usually be there at 7:25, If someone is in business for themselves and cant return a call or keep their word: %^&*'em.

So with that in mind I gave up on figured wood, went to Lowes bought a plank of poplar and ordered a veg tanned calf skin from Waterhouse leather. I have in mind to do an interlace suspension as per Peter Johnssons instructions with the modificaction of a second suspension point to adjust the cant of the weapon. my question is do you guys think this will work? I've never seen an interlace done with a longsword and want some opinions.

Conversely the option is also open to do a strap bridge with interlaced cross strapping which would also require two suspension points but might look better....Opinions, experiences?

Forging fittings is not easy! At least not for me! As for suspension, I have no idea, but will be watching this thread to learn a thing or two. I need a good suspension system for my Tinker Sword.

First off, I've never been a big fan of Viking swords but, this is going to be stunning to the nth degree ! Kudos all around !

I've never done an interlace suspension system but, I believe I thought you could angle you interlaceing, which would adjust the cant of your sword. The diagram I saw years ago, did show a slight cant, by making your leather cuts a little farther on the top of the belt I think you should be able to achieve your desired results.

I'll pull up a copy and take a look.

Mornin' Eric, no it aint easy especially symmetrically lining up that long radius on an AE. I tried leaving a flat area and just curving the arms but after fitting this to the blade I wasnt satisfied as the long curve is part of the aescetic and that 2 3/4" flat spot just couldnt work.

Thanks Pete, this is a design I've kickin around ever since I got mesmerized by the "viking longsword" concept.

That is one of my favorite designs!
That is the one from the female gravesite in Finland correct?
I have found the hilt and crossguard on Raymonds quiet press cast and ready to go and he has it in vulcanized rubber too, for my rattan sword! That may be the way I go if I can get a blade blank of reasonable quality. That way I can carry the live blade and fight with the rattan and keep some continuety!.

Ringulf, the suontaka sword is also one of my favorites, the fittings I wanted are a variant of the Suontaka fittings with more of a "flow" similar to Albions 'Ulvesbane' sword.

Ah! good choice, this one though beautiful that I was thinking of is getting so well known. I know it is one of the nicest Viking age peices we have but it would be nice to see some of the lesser known examples.

Dang R.D i'm drolling lol, she's gonna look special. i see no reason why you couldn't adjust that style of suspension to work with that longsword. it may tak a little tweeking to do it but if any one here has the skill it's you. yeah it should be very doable.