Comments on Patterns/Instructions for Ranger Kits

[deadextra]

Here's the most complete source of patterns based on extant medieval clothing and primary source illustrations that I've found. It doesn't say anything about measurements most of the time but definitely helpful. http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-ca ... khome.html

[Kiriana]

yeah his site has a pretty good list of info there.. I have had that one tagged for some time now hehe

[Gondian]

Thank you Caedmon for the patterns! Kyrtle and cloak to be added to kit soon!

[Ernildir]

I am currently preparing to cut the pattern, and want to make sure I fully understand it so I won't make any mistakes. So I have a question.

First the body, measure from the length of the kyrtle, mid-knee or thigh(?),over the shoulder, and add six inches. Next measure around your widest part; chest, waist, hips, butt, whatever. Divide by two and add three inches. These two numbers are the rectangle of the body piece, cut 1.

"measure from the length of the kyrtle, mid-knee or thigh(?),over the shoulder"

For this measurement, would I begin measuring at mid-knee or thigh and stop at the top of my shoulder? Or begin at mid-knee or thigh, go over my shoulder, and back down to my mid-knee or thigh on the other side? The rather geometric layout of the pattern "stolen from Marc Carlson" looks to me rather like the second interpretation, but I'm not sure.

[Ernildir]

Next measure from just over the top of your shoulder down to below your wrist. Measure your wrist, and around the widest part of your arm. These measurements are for your arm pieces. Cut two piecess.

How would this be cut? Would it be a shape with the length of my arm tapering from the width of the widest part to the width of my wrist?


And on the topic of sleeves, will I be able to count on rolling them up? I like being able to roll my sleeves up to my elbows.

[deadextra]

1. Look at the pattern which is drawn out. The measurement is used for the length of the main body piece. He doesn't say to multiply it by two and add six inches, so it looks like the measurement is from the knee/thigh, over the shoulder, and back to the knee/thigh plus six inches.

2. You're just making a trapezoid. The length of the piece is the arm measurement, the wide side is the arm measurement, and the small side is the cuff. On my shirts I measure from the underarm, over the shoulder, and back to the beginning instead of measuring the biggest part of my arm. It'll be a similar number though.

3. If you want to be able to roll your sleeves up, you should have the cuff be as big around as your bicep, plus maybe two inches. Unless your hand is bigger around than your arm a cuff with the circumference of your hand won't be able to go past your elbow. If you do want sleeves which are that big, I suggest having drawstrings at the cuff to keep it in check.

I said bicep plus two to be safe when cutting. If that makes it too big when you pin the pattern together, just cut it down a bit more.

[Ernildir]

1. Look at the pattern which is drawn out. The measurement is used for the length of the main body piece. He doesn't say to multiply it by two and add six inches, so it looks like the measurement is from the knee/thigh, over the shoulder, and back to the knee/thigh plus six inches.

2. You're just making a trapezoid. The length of the piece is the arm measurement, the wide side is the arm measurement, and the small side is the cuff. On my shirts I measure from the underarm, over the shoulder, and back to the beginning instead of measuring the biggest part of my arm. It'll be a similar number though.

3. If you want to be able to roll your sleeves up, you should have the cuff be as big around as your bicep, plus maybe two inches. Unless your hand is bigger around than your arm, then a cuff with the circumference of your hand won't be able to go past your elbow. If you do sleeves which are that big, I suggest having drawstrings at the cuff to keep it in check.

I said bicep plus two to be safe when cutting. If that makes it too big when you pin the pattern together, just cut it down a bit more.

Thank you for the assurance and sleeve-rolling suggestion.


Caedmon,

Before I cut the pattern, is there anything I should alter to modify it to the "Ithilien style?" I love the look of the sketch you did and want to aim for that.

[caedmon]

Caedmon,

Before I cut the pattern, is there anything I should alter to modify it to the "Ithilien style?" I love the look of the sketch you did and want to aim for that.

No, actually that turns out to be amazingly simple.

for the gores on the sides you cut a square, cut it on the diagonal and re assemble as a triangle.

for the gores on the front and angled split front,you cut a slightly larger square, and assemble into a diamond, but don't sew the middle.

[Ernildir]

Well, that certainly looks simple enough. Thanks.

What should I do with the gores in the back?

[caedmon]

Well, that certainly looks simple enough. Thanks.

What should I do with the gores in the back?

It's up to you. Split skirts in the front enable extra room for running & walking. Split skirts front & back are great if you're a horseman. Historically both were done.

[Ernildir]

Perhaps I shall just split the back and hope that someday I will be a horseman, then.

Thank you so much for all of your guidance. I look forward to the sewing instructions.

[caedmon]

I have updated the Bocksten Kyrtle sewing how to.

I have changed some of the pattern instructions to fit the original piece (instead of the fake one in my head), and added sewing instructions for two steps.

http://ranger.budgetauthenticity.org/fo ... 025#p16025

[Ernildir]

Yay! Thank you! I'll probably get to work on those first steps this weekend.

[Ernildir]

Well, I did step two before step one. I was delaying the sleeves because I wanted to be sure I cut them right. If I am planning to have sleeves that I can roll up, would it be advisable to just not taper them at all?

[caedmon]

Well, I did step two before step one. I was delaying the sleeves because I wanted to be sure I cut them right. If I am planning to have sleeves that I can roll up, would it be advisable to just not taper them at all?

The only issue you have with not tapering the sleeves is that you are using the sleeve taper to create the under arm gusset.

If you cut your gusset separate you should be fine. I'd still taper the sleeve ever so slightly.