Ernildir wrote:I've been examining the instructions to make sure I fully understand them before cutting out the pattern, and now I have a few questions:
1) Does it mean anything special to cut the pieces "on fold?" It doesn't mean the fabric is doubled over a fold before cutting so that all of the pieces are actually twice the size as shown, does it?
2) The one and a half inch drawstring opening should not be made right at the top of the waist, right? It should be somewhere within the three inches that will be folded over to form the waist band tube? So maybe, of those three inches, three quarters of an inch should be sewn closed both above and below the one and a half?
3) What does it mean to "Tack seam open top 6 inches to allow draw string to pull through tube?"
Thanks.
Brandwyn here on Ringulf's computer...
question 1 - yes, you need to cut the pieces on the fold as shown so that you get twice the amount of fabric. The amount of inches you need around the waist really depends on your waist circumfrance and how "poofy" you want the pants. The more fabric you have, the more they will drape and that makes them look more full. The inches I showed here are for Ringulf. If you are of thinner build you can get away with less fabric. A general rule of thumb is that you want about 3-4 times more fabric than your waist size.
Question 2 - you are correct. It works best to have the opening for the drawstring centered from top to bottom on the waist band. If you want a bit of a ruffle above the drawstring around your waist, you can put in another line of stitching about a half an inch or so down from the top edge - all the way around. The drawstring will rest against that row of stitching and the fabric above it will pleat into a ruffle.
Question 3 - I am not sure how to describe this step. Basically what you want to do is make sure the seam allowance that falls inside of the waist band is sewn down so that your drawstring won't catch on it when you are working the drawstring around through the waistband when you first put the drawstring in. (This step is not critical, it just will save you aggrivation when you go to install the drawstring.) I usually pin the two pant legs together and then iron the seam open (before sewing) in the area that is going to be part of the waistband. I then tack them down on each side before I sew up the pantlegs together. The tacking only goes down 6 inches from the top (so it is only the area that will be inside the waistband.)
The sewing term "Tack" means to sew a long stitch. A tacked seam usually is one that is temporary to hold pieces in place until the regular seams are sewn. You should be able to pull a tacked seam out easily, much like opening a drawstring on a dog food or horse feed bag by pulling one thread. For the purposes of sewing the seam allowance fabric open inside the waistband you can tack it or sew a regular seam since you are not going to be pulling it out.
You are also correct in that the crotch gusset needs to be a diamond shape and that is why you cut it on a fold like you already figured out and Manferuon already explained. You might have to play with the number of inches from the top that you put the gusset points in to start. You need enough room to form the back seam from your waist down to your butt crack (excuse my language but not sure how to put that delicately). The first pair I made for Ringulf didn't allow him enough room to sit down comfortably. I had the points starting at 8 inches down from the top in the front and the back. That's why I put 12 inches here in the pattern to allow more crotch space. You might need it someplace in the middle. Best thing is to pin it in place and very carefully try the pants on to see how it fits. I suggest wearing jeans or sweat pants while trying the pinned russ pants on over them to spare your skin. lol (hint: getting them off without getting stuck is the hard part)
I hope this helps and hasn't confused you more. Sometimes I have a difficult time explaining things with words that I can see perfectly fine in my head. LOL. I also appologize for not getting to this sooner. I have been swamped with unpacking and job hunting and Christmas stuff and haven't been on the site very often.
If you run into a problem and need more clarification, please post here. I will try to monitor this thread more often and Ringulf is on here all the time, so he will likely see it first and let me know you have a question.
Also, you can find some other people's patterns for making Russ pants online if you look far enough. It could help to look at the way other people are doing it.
Good luck!
Brandwyn
(I now return control of Ringulf back to himself...)
I am Ringulf the Dwarven Woodsman, I craft leather, wood, metal, and clay,
I throw axes, seaxes, and pointy sticks, And I fire my bow through the day.
Come be my ally, lift up your mead! We'll search out our foes and the Eagles we'll feed!
