Sword Rust

[Manveruon]

Hey guys, I need a little advice.

When I received my custom order from Ernie of Yeshua's Sword, my intention was to also immediately order some Rennaissance Wax and keep the blade coated at all times so as to avoid any potential rust. However, I procrastinated, and eventually I needed to lend the sword to someone so they could help me whip up a wooden scabbard core. This process took a loooooooong time, and in the end the scabbard core didn't even get completely finished (I've got a lot of work to do on it before I can start work on the suspension system, but I digress). When I got it back after a couple of months out of my care, I discovered that there was now fairly extensive surface rust on the blade, as well as what I believe was a glob of glue stuck to the pommel, which, when I removed it, left behind a weirdly discolored blob-shape. The largest portion of rust is up near the cross-guard, but there is also a fair amount along the edge of the blade.

I want to get this sword looking like it's brand new again, so what do I need to do to get it to that state? I am obviously a novice when it comes to sword maintenence, so all of this is new to me. Any help is appreciated!

[Ringulf]

A good step by step here would help many of us. And if someone would be so kind, tips for keeping a blade from this condition would likely be invaluable as well!

[Daerir]

I dont know if this would word on a sword or not but I know in shop class, when we used sheet metal that had rust on it, we brushed liquid flux on it to clean it up really good. Once it was rust free, we painted and clear coated our stuff, but I cant see why you cant do it to a sword, minus the paint part.

**MAKE SURE YOU RINSE THE FLUX OFF REALLY GOOD OR IT WILL JUST KEEP EATING AWAY AT IT!!**

[Peter Remling]

Try Flitz first with a green scrubby pad. Flitz can be gotten from a number of places online including MRL, and Ebay. There are several tutorials on SBG, so give me a while to find a comprehensive one and I'll link it here.

[Ursus]

Depending on how deep the rust is, Ive always started with a 400 grit sandpaper and metal cleaner of some kind(I use a brand called blue magic) and then worked my way up to a 1200 grit sandpaper. After that I hit it with some oil and a piece of scotch brite or hit it with a drill mounted buffing wheel. Hope this helps!

[Greg]

I'd follow Brett's advice, perhaps supplementing with flitz a la pete...but if you get flitz, make SURE it's the stuff for steel. They make it for dozens of metals; the silver polish won't do anything, others might do too much, etc.

Also, anything done with high-grit sandpapers like Brett's talking about should be done with the sandpaper WET. I typicallly use water for this, but metal cleaners or mineral oil can work for this too. You're polishing here, not trying to remove material. Always stroke from the guard end, straight away from you towards the tip, with the tip pointing straight away from you. If you hold it across your lap and wipe that way, your stroke will tend to curve across, and leave rainbow-shaped polish marks along the blade.

Take it slow, and you'll get it looking nice again. Sorry that happened...just make sure you get to work on it quickly, or you'll wind up with pitting. My bristol spent a winter in my old truck, which I didn't know had a window leak in the back of the cab, which was positioned directly over the scabbard throat. Three months of rain slowly dripping in, and there was a deep and vivid channel of coarse rust running in a serpentine pattern the full length of the blade. Lots of work got it off, but there are black pockmarks all along it still, especially around the tip, that'll never come off without re-shaping the whole blade.

If the wood scabbard core didn't work out, and you're too grumpy at this guy you know to work with him any further, I've nearly finished my first one, and have lots of poplar lying around. Let me know, and we'll talk.

[Ringulf]

Another source for Flitz and many other steel maintenance products is West Marine or any of the marine retail chains. They will not be the lowest price compeditively (only slightly better than Aircraft supplies) but will normally have many products at your fingertips for rust removal and steel upkeep.

[ineffableone]

Yep sand that rust off is typically the best option.

If hand sanding seems too much time and effort, you might want to invest in one of those handy little 1" x 30" belt sanders from harbor Freight and an assortment of grit belts for it. Though you will need to watch the heat build up near the edge and tip so you don't burn off the heat treat. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-30- ... 60543.html
These are fairly low cost, only running $45 and if you get the 20% off coupon in their fliers you can get it cheaper.

Something to consider, is polishing it up further than satin polish. Higher polished your steel less susceptible to rust it is as it will have less exposed pores. This is why katana are high polish.

Then oil your blade with some good light mineral oil. Sewing machine oil is one of the cheapest easiest to find sources of light mineral oil.