Sodhopper style boots pattern!

[mcapanelli]

Ah, I think I see it now. The guide uses the same stitch for the sole -- just going at it from a different direction, and in a way that also hides the edge. I think. That's what I'm seeing now anyway.

Thank you all!

P.S. Would it be unwise for me to stitch this using linen thread? Should I use something else?

I have a pair of Sodhopper boots. I could take close up pictures of any section you'd like. Just guide me and I'll snap em.

[Ernildir]

Ah, I think I see it now. The guide uses the same stitch for the sole -- just going at it from a different direction, and in a way that also hides the edge. I think. That's what I'm seeing now anyway.

Thank you all!

P.S. Would it be unwise for me to stitch this using linen thread? Should I use something else?

I have a pair of Sodhopper boots. I could take close up pictures of any section you'd like. Just guide me and I'll snap em.

Thank you, but I think I understand them now. Though I will let you know if I ever find myself unsure again.

[Manveruon]

As for linen thread, I'd personally steer away from it when making boots. It tends to break down fairly easily, in my experience, which is a quality you really don't want in the thread that's holding your boots together. I'd go with synthetic, just for durability's sake.

[Ringulf]

I normally go with my waxed thread that I use for sailmaking, I know it can stand up to what the sea and constant wind put it through, so I feel it has a better chance of standing up to my usage. Of course in different sizes for different applications.

[kaelln]

...the stitch I commonly use, which is the saddle stitch.

Kaelin, does this work for you on garment leather? I've only used the saddle stitch on vegetable tanned leather because I had thought that the soft garment style leather wouldn't work well with the saddle stitch.

Honestly, I haven't used much garment weight leather. I've mostly worked with tooling leather, and thicker leathers in general. I did have a little trouble with some bison leather and that stitch, come to think of it. It's just the stitch I was taught way back when. The little I've done with garment weight, I just used the machine. I know: BAD Ranger! Bad!

[Ringulf]

I think the trick is there that the garment weight leather or suede, requires a lighter stitch in order to keep the material from bunching and the saddle stitch derives its' stregnth from the fact that you can really honker down on it and make it very taught against the seam. This part of the technique would not really be able to be utilized so another more efficient stitch might be tried.

[Ernildir]

I've been using a linen thread suggested by Caedmon and have found it to be quite durable... not as strong as a certain synthetic thread I once used, but it's still tough. Plus I've been sucked into the world of authenticity, and I can't escape. What if I waxed my linen thread before use? I have some thread wax that came with a sewing kit I got a while back, but I don't know how to apply it.

[Ringulf]

I have always used a hockey puck sized piece of bee's wax (now worn down to about half that size) that, after my needle is charged, I pull the thread over with my other thumb over the top to press it in. Doing this several times so that you coat the entire thread, works well for non-waxed threads but it also means that the thread gets a bit less supple and you will have to let it "unwind" from time to time on long stichings, or it will be more prone to snarls.

[Ernildir]

I have always used a hockey puck sized piece of bee's wax (now worn down to about half that size) that, after my needle is charged, I pull the thread over with my other thumb over the top to press it in. Doing this several times so that you coat the entire thread, works well for non-waxed threads but it also means that the thread gets a bit less supple and you will have to let it "unwind" from time to time on long stichings, or it will be more prone to snarls.

Just to make sure I understand -- all that needs to be done is the thread needs to be run over the wax (and under a thumb for pressure)? No heating or anything to make the wax more viscous?

Thanks.

[caedmon]

I've been using a linen thread suggested by Caedmon and have found it to be quite durable... not as strong as a certain synthetic thread I once used, but it's still tough. Plus I've been sucked into the world of authenticity, and I can't escape. What if I waxed my linen thread before use? I have some thread wax that came with a sewing kit I got a while back, but I don't know how to apply it.

I have always used linen in shoes, but Manveruon's point is valid. Linen does break down in constantly damp conditions. Also if you have exposed stitches on the soles, I would strongly suggest that you also have some sort of sole. Most sopdhopper style boots I've seen have had a paint-on latex sole.

Replicating that with Middle Earth appropriate material would be interesting. Anyone know if pitch or tar work?

[Manveruon]

I definitely understand the desire for authenticity, and in that regard synthetics are good to steer away from. Still, I would personally compromise when it came to boots. I'd rather have boots that last and can put up with a little abuse than boots that are totally historically/Middle-Earth plausible. That being said, I'm sure that if you stitch them well enough the linen thread should last quite a while - especially if you're not wearing them every day, or even every weekend.

Now, keeping all of this in mind, there is one other solution that presents itself to me. That is, why not use silk? I would imagine silk would hold up a whole lot better than linen (though I haven't tried it), and would still be "period" appropriate, both to the European Middle Ages and to Tolkien's Middle Earth. There are places you can find heavy silk thread, although you may have to look online, because Joann and most fabric stores only carry the super-fine stuff. Just a thought.

[Peter Remling]

[quote=
Just to make sure I understand -- all that needs to be done is the thread needs to be run over the wax (and under a thumb for pressure)? No heating or anything to make the wax more viscous?

Thanks.[/quote]
You can soften it up a bit by simply leaving it out on the counter in direct sunlight for a 1/2 hour. This will be suffiencent for coating the thread.

[Eledhwen]

Friction of drawing the thread across the wax under pressure is sufficient. That is how I wax my bowstrings and it works fine.

I use waxed linen thread for my boots; for this purpose I purchase the linen thread already waxed...in 4 or 6 ply..it even comes heavier. I have never had a problem with it failing although it does require rather more maintenance than say, artificial sinew...which, btw, can cut the leather you use it on, like any polyester or nylon can.

Six of one, half dozen of the other; use what you like to use, in the end. All we can do is relate our own experiences.

Eledhwen

[Ernildir]

So as I said, I've been working on some "mocc socks" to make sure my pattern fits together well enough before I try it with leather. I am nearly done with the pair of them, but I encountered a problem... I forgot that wool is different from modern elastic, and I couldn't fit my legs into them. XD I had to cut along the front to be able to fit inside, as you can see in the picture. How do y'all suggest I manage the closure system for these socks? I can cut out and sew on more material for a little more coverage. I probably just should have had the socks fold around my legs like the moccasins will, but I wasn't clever enough to think of that ahead of time. How did people fit their socks on back in the day and how can I make these work now?

Thanks.

[deadextra]

Well when making hose you account for that issue, they're cut on the bias so the fabric is a bit more stretchy and the smallest part of the ankle can only be as small as the distance from the front of your ankle around the back of your heel. The other thing to do was just make them loose and use a variety of mechanisms to tighten them down. So for documentable period methods of dealing with the problem, I have nothing.

The simplest thing to do is just give it a couple sets of ties that you can do up in an arming knot, this would be less bulky than using things like toggles and buttons.