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An Icelandic vararfeldir

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 1:13 am
by Eofor
Hagen nodded towards the corner of the room where a man sat swaddled in an enormous stack of furs ‘whats going on here then Jolion? You let wild men into the wing now?’

Jolion hushed him with a quick hiss ‘Quite Hagen you fool, that’s Eofor’

‘What on earth is he wearing?’ asked Hagen in surprise, the roaming horseman was no stranger here but was better known for his finery.

‘Says it’s a troll skin cloak’ said Jolion flatly ‘Had some folk up north make it special for him’

Hagan gaped openly at the brown mass of fur

‘Says it gives him the strength of a troll and that they can’t smell him coming’

Hagans mouth hit the floor

‘So just mind what you say around my guests now you hear?

I wanted to pop in and share something new and exciting with you all. Several months ago I made a commission for a unique textile - An Icelandic vararfeldir, a type of pile woven cloak made in Iceland during the viking age, that has tufts of fleece woven throughout the garment.

Experiments on samples of the garment by Julia Hopkin in edition 63 of the Archaeological textiles review had shown that the fabric had some above average properties for those trekking in the wilds and I couldn't overcome my curiosity about how a full size cloak would perform compared to what I have been using.
I found a very talented weaver from Germany who wove the cloak to the specifications laid out in the Grágás, the earliest written Icelandic legal code which dates back to the 10th century and waited until they had completed the laborious task of not just the weaving but the carding and seperating of the top fleece of the wool used (the Grágás state that only the top coat of the Icelandic sheep could be used)

In a middle earth context I could see such a garment being worn by a shepherd in the misty mountains foothills or in the white mountains, perched upon a rock with his sling and stave watching over his herd through all weathers.

Anyway here it is, I didn't want to make the original post too heavy but if you have any questions I'm happy to talk about this thing all day.

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Re: An Icelandic vararfeldir

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 11:08 am
by Elleth
Hunh.

Well I'll be, that's just extraordinary!

I recall hearing passing references to "fake fur" in the medieval far north ages ago, but never looked into it. That's a different beast entirely! It looks very much the best of both worlds.

I'm curious how the fur actually attaches. I can't quite tell from the picture of the pile, but it looks like they're at near full length - that or the Icelandics there have great super-super-long coats. Are those locks of fur knotted somehow on the back? Or do they just pass through the base layer and out again, and are knotted on the front?

Or neither, and I'm missing something in how that thing is put together?

Re: An Icelandic vararfeldir

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 12:05 pm
by Eofor
Elleth wrote: Wed Apr 27, 2022 11:08 am I'm curious how the fur actually attaches. I can't quite tell from the picture of the pile, but it looks like they're at near full length - that or the Icelandics there have great super-super-long coats. Are those locks of fur knotted somehow on the back? Or do they just pass through the base layer and out again, and are knotted on the front?
There are many options favoured throughout the spectrum of finds but this is the method that has been used on mine. For added strength you can knot both sides, I have another made locally that has the double knot and it will be interesting to see them age together.

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Elleth wrote: Wed Apr 27, 2022 11:08 am That's a different beast entirely! It looks very much the best of both worlds.
I love it regardless, the look, smell and sensory feeling of the cloak added to the feeling of ideal insulation but I am also very excited to test it in harsh conditions and see if it's reputation is deserved.

Re: An Icelandic vararfeldir

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 12:26 pm
by Elleth
Ah - I see. Very cool - that sheep must have had quite a long coat!!

... I imagine the portions tucked into the weave will over time felt into the rest of the fabric, especially if it ever gets a washing. Very cool!!!

Re: An Icelandic vararfeldir

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 1:02 pm
by Udwin
Too cool! At a boutique last year I saw a 'sheepskin' rug that did achieved a similar look but used a felt backing instead of woven. This looks way more practical!
Lately I've been fringing the edges of a cloak for a herdsman-type kit, but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't take the time and loop in some of this raw wool I have kicking around and see how it comes out.

Re: An Icelandic vararfeldir

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 1:42 pm
by jasonofthehill
Very nice, would definitely like to hear how it performs. Seems like it would wick water away from you really well. Also has some ghillie suit like qualities to it, if draped over your head and shoulders to break up that outline I imagine it would be rough to spot you in the wild.

Re: An Icelandic vararfeldir

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 6:26 pm
by Taylor Steiner
Holy cow that's neat!

Re: An Icelandic vararfeldir

Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2022 9:11 pm
by Iodo
Very nice, love it :P

Re: An Icelandic vararfeldir

Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2022 8:20 pm
by ForgeCorvus
I've seen fleeces from primitive breeds that have been felted on the inside to make something like this.

I really like the look of that beastie

Re: An Icelandic vararfeldir

Posted: Tue May 03, 2022 11:40 pm
by Cimrandir
I've said it many times before but I'll say it again. That is possibly the coolest early medieval garment I have ever seen. You look amazing and it fits the rough and wild character of Eofor perfectly. One of these days I would love to add one to my kit. It definitely is rather Rohirric in nature but I can easily imagine a savvy Dúnedain seeing one and trading quite a bit for one of their own. Absolutely wonderful. I very much look forward to seeing the results of your experimental archaeological tests!