Bows.

[Cimrandir]

Thanks for all the answers guys.

Greg - Thanks for all the advice. I'll have to look for those types of bows. I'm afraid that a Martin is a bit pricey for my budget. I'll have to research TradGang - that seems like a interesting site.

[Willrett]

tradgang is a great site i try to visit there often.

[Cimrandir]

So what's the opinion on this bow?

http://rudderbowsarchery.com/shopping/i ... cts_id=407

[Peter Remling]

Rudder has a good rep. I currently own a Rudder, although not the one pictured. For the price I'd give it a thumbs up.

[Cimrandir]

Just ordered the bow.

[Dailir]

Hope you enjoy your new bow! Tell us how you like it when it arrives.

[Cimrandir]

Will do. Oh and it's 35# @ 29"

[Greg]

@29", this probably will never be a problem, but make sure you don't overdraw it. Fiberglass bows and backed bows (such as Bamboo-backed Hickory/Ipe/Osage) don't have this problem, but unbacked bows like yours, when overdrawn, can take a BAD set, meaning they don't go all the way back to straight when unstrung. Making sure your arrows are cut to the appropriate length can help prevent this. Your bow will take a small set regardless, but overdrawing can compound the problem, and decrease the arrow speed the bow provides over time.

Enjoy the new toy!

[Cimrandir]

Well, I draw back to my ear. Is that a bad thing?

[Greg]

Anchor point isn't an issue. The distance from that anchor point to the back of the bow (side facing away) is the critical part. If you draw to the ear, you need to make sure that the overall length of that draw isn't over what the bow's rated. When you get the bow, place a yardstick between your fingers on the string and draw the bow with the stick over the rest/your nuckle. Have someone read the measurement on the back of the bow at full draw, and that'll tell you if you're within the tolerances of what your bow's designed for. If not, you can simply bend your bow arm to bring the bow closer, or you can adjust your anchor point; whichever's more comfortable for you.

Let us know how the bow shoots! Pics as well, if possible, would be great!

[Cimrandir]

Ahh, thanks! I was getting worried. As for pics, will do!

[Jon]

So would it be safer to get a bow with a draw length 2 inches more (and slightly higher poundage) than you usually draw to avoid any risks?

[Greg]

While that sounds like a good idea, and yes, it would cause the bow to be "safer", you'd be sacrificing a couple of key things.

For starters, a well-made bow will start to "stack" approximately 1-2" past its intended draw length. Stacking is where the bow starts adding pounds exponentially...it feels like you've hit a wall in the draw, and the bow won't budge any more.

A bow performs at its absolute best 1-2" before the stacking starts. It provides the best arrow speed, the greatest power stroke, and the least hand shock without under-drawing. In other words, you get the most bang for your buck right in that zone where the max draw length is marked. If you under-draw, the bow loses inches of the "power stroke", where all of the force is put into the arrow, reducing speed and "punch" upon impact. Under-drawing a bow will cost you speed and accuracy. If a bow breaks and you've got your arrows measured to the length appropriate for it, it's not the fault of the user, but rather the fault of the maker.

That being said, I should mention that if your draw length is 29", the arrows should be cut 30" long and then the ends tapered/slotted for points, depending on what you're using. That will leave full draw, 29", at the BACK of the point/broadhead, so that its always in front of the bow. Full draw should land the back of your field point about even with the bow's leading edge, or back. Otherwise, you're setting yourself up to shoot your finger off.

[Duathen]

Does anyone here draw to their ear? I understand that English longbowmen drew in this fashion, and I believe I heard somewhere that the same draw was used by hunters, etc. of the time period.

I ask because I'd like to draw to the ear, but don't know how to measure such a draw length. Could one just measure an appropriately sized arrow in an approximated draw, sans bow?

[Greg]

Best way to measure draw length is to go to an archery shop. They usually have a light-poundage fiberglass bow with an arrow marked up like a ruler attached to the string, so you can draw it as far as you need to. Drawing an arrow without the bow tends to make your form bad (or extra-good, as the case may be) so it's usually not an accurate reading.

The Mongols and other eastern archers that shoot horn recurve bows with thumbrings draw in the ballpark of the ear, depending on which region they come from. I know David prefers drawing to the ear.